May 15, 2017
For Maria Grazia Chiuri’s first Cruise collection, she waste no time to unveil to us an authentic retelling of feminism with her most poignant collection to date. Deriving from Christian Dior’s archival prints of his Ovale line; appropriated from rock paintings of the Lascaux cave in 1940; he formed his own allusions to a primitive female depictions of a wild an ancient femininity and was the moving creative force into the guidance of Maria Grazia Chiuri’s debut Cruise 2018 collection.
Embedding her own unique feminine take, she brought this intuition to life along the bestial spirit of the designer’s favorite book; Women Who Run with the Wolves by Clarissa Pinkola. Still embracing the Dior heritage, she adds in her eclectic touches in the form of extraordinary silk jacquards where the ocher, almost gold in color, contrasts with blacks. Female handprints, reinterpretations of the original forms, become magnificent sequined embroideries in
earthy shades. Maria Grazia Chiuri has appropriated the savoir-faire of the Dior ateliers, reinventing it to tell her story in ideal forms. A story that alters proportions and lengths to correspond to the contemporary landscape, in which sport mixes with haute couture, where tradition becomes ornamental abstraction and where materials see their status changed.
Maria Grazia Chiuri has also brought a pop interpretation to her use of the tarots given a high-octane feminist reinvention by Vicki Noble in order to give new life to Monsieur Dior’s beloved art of divination. The idea that a person’s smell is the expression of their soul can be found in the feminine take on an emblematic perfume such as Eau Sauvage. Combined with what is considered to be the most breathtaking location to date; the Las Virgenes Upper Canyon by the Santa Monica mountains, it delivered the message of feminine purity and strength in the golden hour.